You know, it’s always that thing, trying to absorb the last days of vacation, as if your eyes could see more, your face could take more sun and more breeze. It is what it is. The last week I spent on Ile de Re was stormy, in an up and down sort of way. The days would begin grim and end glorious, or vice versa. I managed to get a swim in every day, however. The last day I was there I biked down to the village to do my morning shopping, with sunglasses on. Before I’d sat down for my cafe, the clouds zoomed in and exploded, and by the time I was riding home, it was sunny again, and I was soaked, but warm.
Aden & I went out after dinner when a storm was blowing mist around, she was scared to approach the beach at dusk when the storm was whipping around…”It’s just nature”, I told her. As we stood watching the sea, a heron, completely in silhouette, descended on the edge of the exposed rocks before the surf. “That’s nature, cheri. It’s like the movies and songs but much more powerful.”
On the last day in town I managed to jab my hand with the oyster knife and it went thru the glove’s rubber pad, argh. Now, as a lefty, I’m at a disadvantage–it seems that an oyster turns itself clockwise, and thus, holding it in your left hand would be the best approach. I saw online that there are steel mesh oyster gloves….for $300!!! I mean, I love oysters, but…I could hire an on-staff shucker for that price. Evidently there’s one born every minute, how much can they be worth?
In the last week the island’s blackberries became mature, which meant I was either climbing geography to get them, or letting the local produce gardens do the heavy lifting. Melons are another regional specialty, I guess Americans would call them cantaloupe, but they’re not the same species as their N. American cousin. And, to be honest, the local variety are so much more fragrant and rich. Wow. Slap some jambon de Vendee on that and you’ve got my attention. Other island specialties are haricots verts, what we yankees grew up calling string beans; and an astonishing variety of lettuces, many forms and colors and all very very good. I also indulged my passion for figs (see also: the Posies album cover), tho these came from Spain. There are lots of fig trees in the village, but I have never seen them produce anything more than green bulbs.
Fish variety is of course excellent, amazing quality–from fat sardines to athletic looking bar (a kind of sea bass), to Gilt head bream (what the French call a Dorade Royale) to all the amazing plaice/turbot and related bottom flat fellas. The village has an amazing fish monger, not in the market but they have their own solid shop, Chez Manu. The second to last day I was there, a tiny, barely ambulatory woman came in and bought €100 worth of live lobsters (i.e., 7 or 8 of them) AND a pile of chipirons, the small squids. That’s an ambitious program–better have a lot of counter space, some big pots and pans, and an ample set of burners. Ahem.
Well, the last day came. Oysters were eaten (with a vengeance, after my hand stabbing incident). I swam in the ocean, even tho the sun was out the waves were pretty big and a little scary, but I had to do it. I’m no fool tho–if there hadn’t been another hardcore out there I would never have chanced it.
We had the last dinner at the house, and I was so sad, I could hardly eat. Aden and I took a last walk on the beach, where we had spent so much time smashing all the sandcastles built every day, as if we owned that beach, and at that time, we might as well have.
The taxi took us to La Rochelle, the train took us to Paris. Aden was very well behaved throughout, making the long journey as pleasant it could be–the journey that takes us away from weeks spent together 24 hours a day, playing in work-free joy in a magical, wild place. Aden and I really stick like glue in these times, and of course with a kid, you can’t hold that moment, she’s only six once, and will never see the world like that again. Aden’s insights and humor are always growing, but it’s fun to see her guess around the corners of her the work in progress that is her acquisition of knowledge.
Incredibly there was no waiting for taxis at the station in Paris, and I lucked out–I had *exactly* the fare and a small tip, without having to bum the cabbie out by producing a €50 note. I got the suitcase upstairs, ugh. Dom was still hours away from coming home, still onsite at the first night of the Rock En Seine festival, where she is the director of all the VIP accreditation–she has Paris by the dangly bits, in other words. I immediately had work to do–uploading huge files that are the high-res versions of my demos for the Posies album, to be used as bonus tracks by the label. They were waiting up for them in New York, and it took a couple of hours for me to upload them. They were just finishing when Dom got home at 3am, and of course, Aden had stayed up to see her too.
We were up the next morning at 8, to get Dom to work, and we got Aden half dressed and downstairs so we could break fast at the cafe. We said goodbye to Dom at 9.30, and in the 30 minutes I had before a UK phone interview, I managed, with Aden in tow, to pick up a package at the post office, shop for groceries, buy a newspaper, and pick up my dry cleaning.
After the interview I had to dive in to work, but it’s always so daunting, I never know where to begin on that front. It’s never efficient on those first days, too big a list to know where to start.
And that afternoon, Aden & I took the metro 27 stops to the end of the line, to the site of festival Rock En Seine, one of the biggest in France and certainly the biggest in the Paris region. It’s quite mainstream, so the lineup is not really my thing but it’s a great opportunity to hang a bit (the schmoozing sucked tho), I had a few friends there, and luckily Beth & Ed and their son Soren, who’d already been hanging with me on Ile de Re, were in town for another day. Being that French society is structured with the family always in mind, Rock En Scene has an amazing kids area called “Mini Rock” so you can drop the young uns there and enjoy the festival. It’s very well run, very safe, it’s off a bit from the noise (they run this service–for free–until 1am, by which time it’s storytelling in big tent, really cool) etc. Aden was there til she got tired around 7, we sent her back with her babysitter; Soren was there til we all left the festival. Now, as I said, most of the music that day was kinda….enh. Queens of the Stone Age, what I saw of them, were really good. I watched a bit of Martina Topley Bird, who was bravely minimal on a rather big stage, that was cool. On our way to retrieve Soren, Jello Biafra was taking his band thru a thoroughly authentic version of “Let’s Lynch the Landlord”. I had to leave soon after the one act I wanted to see, 2ManyDJs, started, but they seemed to be doing their job, the crowd was bobbing for all the apples thrown their way.
I went back on the metro with Beth/Ed/Soren, said goodbye on Line 1, and went to say hi to the Cambodian Space Project, playing at a little bar near Hotel de Ville; I missed their set but it was nice to see them, they were heading back to Cambodia the next day. I took a velib home, Dom was already back, and hit the sack.
Sunday morning now, I have to dive into mixing the rest of the Hannah Gillespie album, WAY overdue. Listening to album I recorded by Hanggai in Beijing this year, which comes out in September…wow. They’re actually playing in Holland tonite. Arcade Fire are headlining Rock En Seine tonite, but I just can’t muster the strength to go across town an hour each way again, just to see a band, even tho their crew is made up of many REM alumni. No sitter. Work to do.
Onward.
Love
KS
Paris










